Sunday, September 20, 2009

9/15 - Little Diversion Channel - Mississippi River


Reflection and Falkor tied stern to stern in the Little Diversion Channel
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"Reflection" and "Falkor" started out at 6:30 a.m., not only because we wanted to be out of the way of the Army Corps of Engineers before they started moving their barge equipment near our dock, but also because we had a 69 mile trip to make to an anchorage at Little Diversion Channel. This spot is only a narrow cut in the west bank of the Mississippi where a few boats can hide from the current and barge traffic of the river, and such safe stopping spots are rare. We arrived about 1:30 p.m., each vessel dropped a bow anchor in opposite directions, and then backed up slowly to each other and tied our sterns together. We did this so our boats would not move during the night in this very tight situation. No other boats entered the anchorage, and outside of our getting slightly waked by two bass boats motoring by quickly in the dark (and it was VERY dark), we had a quiet, peaceful night.

9/14 - Kaskaskia River Lock

Cliffs rising along the Mississippi

Corps of Engineers tow boat and construction barge entering the Kaskaskia River Lock


Off loading construction equipment to begin work at the lock and dam
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The places to safely tie up or anchor a boat on the Mississippi are few and far between. The river twists and turns along muddy banks with light brown water, and can be almost mesmerizing except that the boater must always be aware of the possible hazard of a large tow boat with a multitude of barges coming around a blind turn.

The tow boat operators were very friendly and we were in contact with many by radio as we asked them about which side we would pass them: "on the one's" (port to port), "on the two's" (starboard to starboard), etc.

After 41 miles we pulled into the Kaskaskia River Lock wall where we asked the lock-tender whether we could tie up for the night even though it was only about 11 a.m. at this point. After getting all our info about boat name, how many people were aboard, and destination, he said that we could tie up, but that the Army Corps of Engineers was going to be bringing in a barge and equipment to work on the lock and dam, yet he would allow us to stay there unless they needed us to move.

Imagine then a lovely summer afternoon with temperatures in the low 80s, little wind, and just the sound of cicadas. Nap time! Then suddenly a voice on the marine radio interrupted everything! "Vessel "Reflection", sorry I have to disturb you, but you're going to have to move!" At the request of the tow- boat barge captain who had arrived with a huge barge with major equipment aboard, the dock we were at was where they wanted to tie up, so we had to untie and go to another section of the lock wall out of their way. We did so quickly, and were happy they were just allowing us to stay.

A little while later we heard another vessel, "Falkor", calling the lock-tender and asking to also tie up. He granted them permission as long as we could make do together on the same space on the lock wall. We were glad to move our boat to make room for them, and George helped them tie up. "Falkor" was a Grand Banks 36 with Allen and Gayle Binnington from Guelph, Ontario aboard and this was their 3RD TIME AROUND DOING THE "LOOP"! We invited them for cocktails aboard and by sharing their detailed logs of previous trips, they were a wealth of information on what we would yet be encountering. They were heading to the Bahamas for the winter, and we decided to travel together for some of our way south. We were so happy to meet this charming couple!

9/13 - Kimmswick, Missouri

Entering the Mel Price Lock on the Mississippi
(over 1000 feet long)

Pat at her post securing Reflection to a floating bollard in the lock for our ride down.

The Gate Way Arch

Tow boat pushing twenty barges up the Mississippi (we saw a single tow boat pushing 45 barges later in the day)

Hoppie's Marine Services (any port you can find on the Mississippi)

Walled home near Kimmswick, Mo

Kimmswick, Mo. Post office
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We left our slip at Alton Marina at 6:40 a.m. on a 44 mile trip down the Mississippi through 2 locks to Hoppie's Marine Service. These locks were enormous in length and width in order to accommodate the size of the tows and barges that we have seen as we travel these large waterways. Today's travel also took us past St. Louis with a different view of the Arch and its surroundings which we had visited only a few days ago by land.

The river current was moving at approximately 2 to 3 knots and we were glad that it was going our way. Water temperatures were in the low to mid 80s and the river was somewhat brown in color though, not as muddy as the Illinois River.

Thanks to the current we arrived at our destination before 11 a.m. Hoppie's is a famous stop for boaters on the Mississippi. Dockage was at three 100 foot long barges tied to a cliff with cables. It was also the only place to get fuel for the next 107 miles and the only marina for 228 miles! We also got to meet the well-known owner, Fern Hopkins, the local expert on the rivers we will encounter going south to Mobile. Mrs. Hopkins was kind enough to sit with us and our charts and go over potential anchorages, trouble spots, and good marinas along the way. We greatly appreciated her time and advice!

George walked into town that that had two nice restaurants and several small shops selling everything from Christmas items to whips and saddles. We had grilled hamburgers for dinner and we enjoyed an evening of comedy DVDs.

9/12 - Alton, Illinois (home of "Fast Eddie's")

This was our third and final day in Alton in preparation for the next stage of our trip on the Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland Rivers. We left the boat at 8 a.m. and went to the local Farmers' Market where we picked up fresh vegetables, and home-made breads, cookies and apple tarts. Then we headed to a large grocery store to stock up with everything we would need for the refrigerator, freezer, and pantry for at least 10 days without access to a market.

Pat then spent the rest of the afternoon organizing all these purchases, cleaning the interior of the boat, and writing our blog. In order not to be in the way of her activities, George VOLUNTEERED to visit a well-known bar/eatery in the area, "Fast Eddie's Bonair" in order to personally research its notoriety.

"Fast Eddie's" was first recommended by the agent when we rented a car in Alton. It was also recommended by various folks at the marina, and it became clear that the captain, for the good of those reading this blog, should explore the wonders of "Fast Eddie's".

George got in a cab and went on his way. The driver again regaled him with stories about the glories of this landmark bar. Where George was going sounded like a bar "nirvana".

The outside of "Fast Eddie's" was a completely nondescript structure with the bar food menu and prices painted on the exterior wall: 1/2 pound burgers for a $1.00, home made Bratwurst for a $1.00, a basket of French Fries for (you guessed it) a $1.00. The Captain had to go in and see this for himself.

Upon entering this unique establishment he was struck by the size of the place and the number of people in it. It was huge. It was sort of a combination of "Sloppy Joe's" in Key West, the old "Jimmy Byrne's" and "Jerry Lynch's" bars from the New Jersey shore, and the local bar your father may have hung out in when you were a kid, but all on a grand scale, a very grand scale!

There were literally hundreds of people in the place. The clientele ran from bikers to business men, blue collar, white collar, and no collar. They were all there. Although most folks were in there 20s and 30s, the patrons' ages ran into the early 80s. It was quite an assortment of humanity.

George observed a line and went to the end of it. He asked the guy in front of him what the line was for. He explained this was the line to order food. It wrapped half way around a large rectangular bar. George was told that he was in luck, but when he got into the line it went all the way around the bar. (Lucky guy!) It was rather convenient with the bar and food line right next to each other because you could drink your way around the bar, and most people were doing just that. Oh, by the way, the beer was cheap, too.

George's new bar companion explained that Fast Eddie had quite an influence upon him between the ages of 21 and 24 as he sort of lived at the bar during that time you might say. Now when he comes home to visit his parents, he said that he always stops here, but brings his folks along with him.

George drank his way to the front of the food line where he ordered a Bratwurst and a "Chick on a Stick" (very well seasoned chicken wings on a skewer). He paid his money and was given a receipt and stood on the side waiting for his food. A nice young lady informed him that he might as well find a place to sit down to wait for his food as they were calling number 475 at that time. He looked down at his receipt, and he held number 2. Number 2! How high did these numbers go before they rolled over?

He then went over to one of the bars and found a place to sit next to a nice couple. The guy had enough tattoos to be considered a circus freak, and she sported a lovely "Harley Davidson" logo on her forearm: they were real nice folks. Well, much to George's surprise, in about a half hour and some 80 numbers later they rolled the numbers over and his number 2 came up. The food quality was surprisingly not indicative of its low price. It was actually QUITE GOOD!

After "dining", George decided to walk around and absorb the "ambiance". "Fast Eddie's" was decorated in dark tones with splashes of neon. There were many rooms with music playing throughout. His friend from the food line told him that when the state of Illinois banned smoking in bars, Fast Eddie took action and bought the street adjacent to the bar from the city and enclosed the area for the smokers. This George wanted to see, so he went out a side door into a new world.

Fast Eddie had built a wall between 15 and 20 feet high enclosing the entire area. You couldn't see out, and no one could see in from the outside. This area was filled with tables and chairs, a couple of bars, a stage with two guys playing guitars, and hundreds of people eating, drinking, singing, and dancing.

The captain asked one of the bartenders if it was always this crazy. He explained that this was a small crowd, and he should have been here during mid summer when it was packed. By the way, this was only 4 o'clock in the afternoon.

As George worked his way back to the main bar area heading for the only exit in the place, he looked back for a moment on what must be truly this bar "nirvana". If ever in Alton, Illinois again, he will return.

Upon his return to the boat (having been to the "mountaintop") and a nap, dinner that evening was delivered by a local Chinese restaurant followed up by an early bed-time, since we were anxious to get on our way at sunrise tomorrow.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

9/11 - Alton, Illinois

Today is one of our preparation days for the next segment of our trip which will take us through 2 locks and 201 miles down the Mississippi River, through 2 locks and 59 miles on the Ohio River, and then through 1 lock and 32 miles on the Cumberland River to the Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, Kentucky.

We plan to begin this segment on 9/13 and arrive in Kentucky on 9/18. We will be tied up at only one marina during this time, Hoppie's Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri which is actually 3 barges tied together anchored to the rock shoreline. During the rest of the time we will be at anchorages, and at lock walls, because there are just no facilities to be had! This should be VERY INTERESTING!

So, while Pat did laundry all morning, George cleaned the outside of the boat. We rested in the afternoon, and talked to our friend, Hank Bassford, aboard "Maya Lisa". He and Ceci were supposed to stop at "Mel's Illinois Riverdock" for the night, but instead they changed plans and were now in Grafton. We had planned to go up to meet them at "Mel's" for dinner, and even though they were not there, we decided to still drive up there (40 miles) because George wanted to have the fried chicken special. (The way to a man's heart is through…) We were not disappointed - the meal was great! On our way back we stopped at Grafton Marina, but couldn't get in touch with the Bassfords, so we headed back to Alton.

9/10 - Alton, Illinois

Cliffs along the eastern shore for the Mississippi

More of the same

Clark Bridge in Alton Illinois

Entrance to the Museum of Westward Expansion

The Mississippi from the top of the Gateway Arch

The St. Louis Court House

It is cozy inside the tram compartment

No comment necessary
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Charlie and Helen were leaving us today after 10 days aboard, so we got underway before 8 a.m. for our 17 mile trip to the Alton Marina - our first marina on the Mississippi River.

The river widened considerably and there were now high rock cliffs on the eastern shoreline. The marina's entrance was under the magnificent Clark Bridge which spans the river from the Illinois to the Missouri sides. It took some time to fill up with fuel, get settled in the slip, rent a car, and get the luggage off, but we were on our way to St. Louis by 11:30 a.m.

We finally found Laclede's Landing, a small river-front enclave of restaurants and historic buildings, and chose "Hannagan's" as our restaurant for lunch. We then spent several hours at the famous St. Louis Gateway Arch, where we saw a movie about the Lewis and Clark Expedition, toured the Museum of Westward Expansion, and took a tram ride to the top of the Arch for a panoramic view of the city and the Mississippi River. What a great day!

We then drove Charlie and Helen to the St. Louis International Airport in time for their 7 p.m. flight back to New Jersey. It was nostalgic saying "good-bye" to our long-time friends who we truly enjoyed having aboard to share some of our "adventure" with us. When we returned to "Reflection" we made several phone calls to our neighbors/friends to see what was happening at home. Evidently there was a "northeaster" blowing with lots of wind and rain. Hopefully Charlie and Helen's flight won't be delayed getting in.

9/9 - Grafton, Illinois

White pelicans

Local ferry service


Confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers
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We enjoyed last night's dinner so much that we returned to "Mel's Riverdock Restaurant" for breakfast! It was terrific, and George vowed that we would return on Friday night for Mel's fried chicken special, one of his favorite meals. After all this dining at this "find", we finally got underway at about 9 a.m. for a short 20 mile trip to Grafton Harbor Marina, dubbed "The Key West of the Midwest", since it is located at Mile Marker .0 on the Illinois River. This is a point where the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers come together, known as a "confluence".

We docked before noon at this lovely marina, bought some tee-shirts in the ship's store to commemorate this spot, and set about exploring this small town of 615 people. There were a number of shops and restaurants, a hotel that claimed to be haunted by a young girl, and even a winery. We made several stops along the way, and then decided to split up with Pat returning to the boat, and the others to continue shopping and going to the hardware store for a replacement screw for the anchor.

Upon Pat's return to the dock, she was delighted to see "Houlegan" with our friends Ray and Caryl aboard pulling in. We hadn't really visited with them in person since July, even though we have talked by phone, emailed each other, traversed the fish barrier on the same day, and been tied up at Joliet together. They came aboard bringing George's "quick-release" hose connection which he had left by accident at Tall Timbers Marina, and which Bob, the owner, had asked them to give to us when they could.

We invited Ray and Caryl to come back later for cocktails, so we could really catch up with them on their activities. Our crew again split up for the afternoon: some to read, some to nap, and some to sit at the pool. We had a great cocktail party aboard and after the Houles returned to their boat, our crew went to "The Mississippi Half-Step" for dinner. The restaurant was in a charming historic home with dining in various rooms inside as well as on the outside patio. Since three of us were nursing lots of mosquito bites on our legs from other night-time outdoor activities, we chose to eat inside. The dinner was great, and we closed the place at 10 p.m.