Sunday, September 27, 2009

9/22 - Buchanan, Tennessee

We awoke to overcast skies and lifted anchor at 7 a.m. in the company of "Falkor". Our destination today was Paris Landing State Park Marina 29 miles away. The wind was blowing against us at about 10 knots causing a light chop on Kentucky Lake, which was quite reminiscent of our usual wind/wave conditions on our home waters of Barnegat Bay in New Jersey.

The marina had many available slips and we had our choice of where we wanted to pull in. By late morning we were both comfortably tied up in air-conditioned comfort as the temperature was in the mid 80s and the humidity was high.

George, Al, and Gayle all went on exploratory walks around the Park's grounds, while Pat stayed aboard and used her energy cleaning the inside of the boat. After naps and showers, we called the Park's Lodge where we and the Binningtons planned to have dinner and a ranger came down with his vehicle to transport us from the marina to the facility.

The Lodge was actually a substantial Hotel/Conference Center with several large dining rooms where a Chicken Buffet was being served on this particular evening. Fried Chicken, Barbecued Chicken, Fried Chicken Livers, Chicken and Dumplings, Chicken Soup, a multitude of salads, vegetable selections, potatoes, biscuits, etc., followed by a variety of desserts were on the menu.

Captain George was a happy man, since chicken in almost any form is on his list of favorite foods. Not only was the food delicious, but you could go back to the buffet as many times as you wanted. On top of this, when we went to pay for our dinner, we discovered that we also were eligible for a "over 62" discount which brought the price down to only about $6.50 per person. This was reasonable beyond belief! After dinner, the front desk called the ranger, who now returned us to the marina. What a great night it was at this great location!

9/21 - Sugar Bay Anchorage - Kentucky Lake

Sugar Bay cove our first protected anchorage in quite some time

"Reflection" and her reflection
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"Reflection" and "Falkor" got underway at 10 a.m. for our 14 mile trip to Sugar Bay. We entered the short Barkley Canal which took us from Lake Barkley into Kentucky Lake, that is actually the wide part of the Tennessee River.

The scenery was lush and beautiful, and in some ways reminded us of Chesapeake Bay with many lovely coves for anchoring. We arrived at our location at noon-time, and a little later we were joined by two more boats, "Still Busy" and "Meander".

After lunch, all the boaters came out to play! Some went swimming in the 84 degree water, some washed their hulls, and everyone dropped their dinghies in to go for rides around the anchorage area. George grilled spareribs for dinner, and we enjoyed watching a DVD afterward, followed by a restful night in this special place.

9/20 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky - Lake Barkley

We awoke to rainy skies, and were glad we decided to stay here today before moving on to the Tennessee River. After a great breakfast aboard, we shopped at the "Ship's Store', made a bunch of phone calls, up-dated our blog, and enjoyed cable TV (which is a rarity). Later on in the afternoon, we were delighted to see "Houlegan" enter the marina, and tie up right in front of us. They did the 293 mile push to get here in 4 days, which is quite an accomplishment!

Though they were quite exhausted, Ray and Caryl did come over later to our boat for cocktails, munchies, and great conversation about our shared adventures over the past 10 days. Later in the evening, George enjoyed watching a Giants football game on TV, especially since the Giants bet the Dallas Cowboys in an exciting finish!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

9/19 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky

Neil and Peggy from "Early Out" and Sara (our waitress)

Ceci and Hank from "Maya Lisa"
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We were joyful to learn from Barbara Bryant that her husband, Bob, did indeed have kidney transplant surgery last night, and that he was doing well. God answered our prayers and we continue to ask for Bob's speedy, smooth recovery in his chance at an extended new life without dialysis.

Today's chores included laundry, food shopping, and a stop at the hardware store. Luckily, this marina had golf carts or courtesy vans for rent (which we did), so boaters could make their way into town (about a mile away, but very hilly) or to Paducah (20 miles away), etc.

Grand Rivers is a small tourist village with antique shops, clothing stores, a playhouse, several restaurants, and a grocery store. Since the village is located in a dry county, there are no liquor stores or bars in the area.

We had some rain showers in the afternoon, but the skies finally cleared so that the crews of all 14 boats of "Loopers" could gather together at a gazebo on the marina grounds for an impromptu party of cocktails and appetizers. The table was over-flowing with wonderful treats brought by each boat, proving that our band of travelers eats very well underway! These were the boats who were present: "Reflection" - New Jersey, "Falkor" - Ontario, "Maya Lisa" - Virginia, "Still Busy" - South Carolina, "Early Out" - Florida, "Riff Raff" - Georgia, "Rick 'n Roll" - North Carolina, "Perfect Remedy" - Florida, "Morningside" - Maryland, "Meander" - Florida, "Sterling Lady - Florida, "Carolyn Ann" - Florida, "Pookie II" - Tennessee, and "Boodi and the Beast" - Kentucky - who completed their "Loop" here today.

We all had a great time eating, drinking, telling stories, singing (one gal plays a mean harmonica), and taking pictures. It was a fabulous get- together! Afterwards, we went out to dinner with Hank and Ceci from "Maya Lisa", and Neil and Peggy from "Early Out". "Maya Lisa" will be heading out tomorrow at a fast pace to bring the boat to its winter haul-out location in Fulton, Mississippi in three days. They will then drive home and continue their trip next Spring. After a fun evening at "Patti's", we said our "good-byes" to our friends with hopes to perhaps see them in Florida when they are visiting in Fort Myers this winter.

9/18 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky

Look closely at the top of the tree - there is a Bald Eagle sitting on it
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We left late today - 7 a.m.! The Cumberland was a very narrow river, which twisted and turned past small commercial areas, and had tree-lined scenic areas along its banks. We saw vultures, blue herons, and our second bald eagle of the trip along the way. There were no other boats or barges on our journey, but the current was running against us at a speed of at least 2 knots.

After 30 miles we finally faced formidable Barkley Lock with its lift of 57 feet. We proceeded into the chamber quickly, tied up to a floating bollard, and were lifted speedily into beautiful Lake Barkley. Green Turtle Bay Marina was only a mile beyond the lock, and we were quickly tied up by 2 p.m.

This was our first day in several to be able to walk on land! We also received a wonderful phone call upon our arrival from our dear friend and neighbor, Bob Bryant. He had just received word from the University of Pennsylvania Hospital that a kidney might be available for him so that he could receive a much-needed and prayed-for kidney transplant! He was awaiting word from the hospital after the kidney was tested for the go-ahead to drive to the facility for immediate transplant surgery. Our hopes and prayers were with him!

Al and Gayle invited us to "Falkor" for cocktails, and we decided that afterward we would go to "Patti's 1880's Settlement" for dinner to celebrate our week of travel. George decided before our visit to call Hank and Ceci aboard "Maya Lisa" to see where they were at this point. To our surprise, Hank said that they and 10 other "Looper" boats were in Barkley Lock, just around the corner from the marina, and would be coming in shortly!

What a sight this was a few minutes later! All these boats were lined up and coming into the marina, like a small parade! The boats had begun their trips from various locations in the U.S and Canada, and we knew some of the difficulties each and every one had to surmount to get here: just being "Carp Captives", "Lock Captives", and river travelers.

Everyone was happy to get here, and most looked tired, but ready to party. Aboard "Falkor" Gayle had made delicious home-made scones and a chicken curry spread for hors d'oeuvres. A restaurant van picked us up and we had a wonderful dinner at "Mr. Bill's", the partner restaurant of "Patti's" with the same great menu including their famous 2 inch pork chops. We also learned more about the Binningtons, their careers (professor of Veterinary Surgery, teacher of Chemistry), son and daughter (tug boat captain on the Great Lakes, physiotherapist), and their other boat (canal boat in France). We really enjoyed sharing a fascinating evening with this delightful couple.

9/17 - Cumberland Island Towhead - Ohio River

The confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers

At anchor in the Cumberland Tow Head
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Again we lifted anchor at 6:30 a.m., but when we approached Lock 52 on the Ohio River at 7:45 a.m., we noticed many tows and barges tied up on the shore before the lock. When George called the locktender and asked him when we could come through, we were told in about 3 to 4 hours! George then asked if there was any place that we could tie up while we waited, and he told us to anchor in the river near a particular buoy, and then wait for him to call us.

We used the time to have a wonderful breakfast, and at about 10:15 a.m. we were told that the locktender would fit our two boats in the lock with a tow with several small barges. The Army Corps had closed down the larger lock chamber for repairs, thus causing a major back-up on the Ohio, and we were lucky to be allowed through. This, however, became a very long process, since this lock was quite old and took VERY LONG to empty and fill.

We finally got through about 11:15 a.m. and because of the lock delay, and the current against us, we decided to continue our 26 mile trip to Cumberland Island Towhead on the Ohio, instead of trying to proceed on to the Cumberland River which could have resulted in our being on that river in the dark. On the way our boats passed the confluence of the Tennessee and Ohio Rivers at Paducah, and we continued on the Ohio until we reached the Cumberland River, which we were taking to bypass a lock on the Tennessee which is notorious for huge commercial back-ups.

Again, this anchorage which had been visited before by Al and Gayle proved to be a terrific one. We were anchored by 2 p.m., saw some small deer on the island near sunset, and had a quiet evening planning future stops on Kentucky Lake and the Tennessee River.

9/16 - Little Chain Bar Anchorage - Ohio River

An easy day going down the Mississippi

Barges aground (even the pros screw up)

The confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers

A new lock under construction on the Ohio River (Your tax dollars at work)

Reflection ar her first anchorage on the Ohio River

"Falkor" joins us at anchor
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We lifted our anchors at 6:30 a.m. for our 81 mile trip which was our last on the Mississippi and would take us on to the Ohio River. We again encountered lots of barge traffic and even saw barges that ran aground outside of the channel, just proving that even professional tow captains have to be careful on curves of the river.

Toward the end of the Mississippi run, the scenery became almost surreal with an overcast sky, muddy banks, swirling waters, and incredible curves in the river. As we approached the confluence of the two rivers and then came around the final curve at Cairo, Illinois into the Ohio River, the feeling and scenery completely changed. Even though Cairo was highly industrial, the river banks were now made up of sandy shores and cliffs, perhaps a scene that felt more familiar and comfortable to what we often see on the U.S. east coast.

Now, however, we had 1 - 2 knots of current running against us, which slowed down our travel. We transited Lock 53 on the Ohio very easily, and then proceeded to this anchorage spot that Al and Gayle were familiar with from their last trip, and even though it was about a mile and a half from a coal barge loading area, we stayed as far away from the coal carriers as we could and securely anchored behind a sand bar in the river in about 15 feet of water at about 3:30 p.m. Thanks to Al and Gayle's experience with this area, we again had a quiet night in this great spot right on the Ohio River.