9/26 - Counce, Tennessee

The storm clouds finally clear at Grand Harbor Marina

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We awoke to heavy rain this morning and we were thankful that we made the decision to move here yesterday. It was great to have a leisurely breakfast, check our email, and then check our calendar about when we might return home to check on Pat's mother, keep some doctor and dentist appointments, and visit with family and friends.

George then made phone calls to some rental car agencies and we decided that we would move along to our slip at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina as planned on 9/30. We will then rent a car from there in order to visit the U.S. Space and Rocket Center and other sites in Huntsville, Alabama along with the huge Unclaimed Baggage Center in Scottsboro instead of doing the trip by boat. Along with making some repairs on the boat, we plan to relax a little in the beautiful lake setting, and then pack up and make her ready for our visit back to NJ on 10/8. We also hope to visit with George's sister and brother-in-law in Richmond, VA on our way home, and again on our way back to Alabama.

We plan to return on 10/23 to "Reflection" at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina which will be the site of the American Great Loop Cruisers Association Rendezvous on 10/25 -10/28 with many activities, seminars, meetings, and get-togethers for those of us who are in the planning stages of, currently doing, or have done "The Loop". Having met many of the attendees, we are really looking forward to this event.

When the Rendezvous is over, "Reflection" will then make her way down the Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway to Mobile, across the panhandle of Florida, and then down the Gulf coast to her winter quarters in Goodland, Florida.

Boat chores, and a visit to a marine store occupied our time during the day, but we did take the marina's courtesy car in the evening to Pickwick Landing State Park's restaurant for their buffet dinner. Again, the menu consisted of lots of southern cooking at a reasonable price. We were accompanied on this fun jaunt by Rick and Betsey from "Rick 'n Roll" and Al and Gayle from "Falkor".

9/25 - Counce, Tennessee

The high rent district along the Tennessee River

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Our original plans for today called for us to go to another anchorage only 37 miles away.
However, after hearing weather reports which predicted a 70% chance of showers today, and a 90% chance of heavy rain over-night and tomorrow morning, we decided to push to Pickwick Landing State Park Marina, just beyond Pickwick Lock and Dam. This would lengthen our trip by 12 miles and we would also have to transit the Lock with a lift of 59 feet - a procedure that takes quite a bit of time.

The current ran against us at a speed of 2 knots, and sometimes more. "Falkor" wasn't sure how fast she could go with her single engine in that kind of current, but they told us to go on ahead, and if she could make the Lock in a timely fashion, she would.

The weather deteriorated steadily as the day progressed, and we could see the rain showers literally grow in front of us on our radar. Early in the afternoon we received a phone call from our friend, Caryl, aboard "Houlegan" to tell us that she had just found out that Pickwick Landing was now closed to transient boats due to some dock repairs. This was not a great state of affairs, but we quickly called Grand Harbor Marina which was 9 miles farther than Pickwick, and they said that they would be able give us slip space. We notified "Falkor" of the latest change to our plans, and they felt that this was doable for them also, and that they could make it there by 5:30 p.m.

As we approached the Lock, we were now dressed in full storm gear, as, of course, it was now pouring rain - just in time for outside line handling. The process took approximately an hour from start to finish, and by the time the Lock doors opened for us to enter beautiful Pickwick Lake, the rain stopped just long enough for George to have a celebratory gin and tonic.

We quickly made our way to elegant Grand Harbor Marina, where we received a warm welcome and tie up from Dock-Master Chip and his staff. They located us right behind "Rick 'n Roll" who had come in here earlier, and sure enough, true to his word, at 5:30 p.m., Al brought "Falkor" to the other side of the dock alongside us.

What a day - 67 miles, 1 lock, strong current against us, and lots of rainy weather- were we happy to be here! We were so tired that our dinner aboard tonight consisted of shrimp cocktail, pizza, and hot wing appetizers from our freezer.

9/24 - Double Island Anchorage - Tennessee River

Although this house looks well above the river, during floods the water can be slapping at the door.

These rock layers are the remains of a prehistoric shallow sea
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Unfortunately we had to forgo the warm cinnamon rolls and coffee which were being served gratis at the marina office at 8:30a.m. because we wanted to be underway at
7 a.m. for a 53 mile trip to our anchorage. "Falkor" had stayed at Double Island on one of their past trips, so we were quite confident that it would be a safe spot with good holding.

The current continues to run against us, as the River has narrowed considerably. We continued to dodge the tree and branch debris which was dislodged from the rains farther north. We passed many kinds of homes: some built close to the shoreline on stilts, those built high on rocky cliffs, and RV homes situated on the banks with metal sheds built over them.

The few boats we saw out today were small bass boats. Whenever rain showers became too much on the fly-bridge, we ducked into the main salon and ran the boat from the lower station, and today we were glad to have this option.

"Reflection" lowered the anchor in 19 feet of water at 3 p.m. and "Falkor" arrived about a half hour later. We were then joined by "Still Busy" around 5 p.m.

Our friend, Lou Ianniello phoned about that time to tell us that unfortunately due some business commitments, he and his wife, Judy, would not be able to join us at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina in Alabama on 10/3, as previously planned. We were very disappointed, but decided to re-think our plans for that week and make some adjustments to our stay there. This anchorage turned out to be a great spot despite the fact that we were separated from the main body of the River only by the island we were tucked behind.

9/23 - New Johnsonville, Tennessee

Again the skies were overcast as we cast off our dock lines at 7 a.m. for our 30 mile trip to Pebble Isle Marina. There was also a slight mist as we got underway, and we broke out our storm gear jackets for the first time since we crossed Lake Michigan on 8/28.

We have really had great weather with temperatures in the low 80s, light winds, and mostly sunny to partly cloudy skies since Chicago, so we have really been fortunate on our travel days. Any rain we have had has occurred over-night or when we have planned to stay in a marina. We continued to experience current against us as we made our way south because the Tennessee flows from south to north and also many of the water levels are manipulated through the dams operated by the Tennessee Valley Authority.

Since there has been substantial rain north of our location for the past several days, we have started to see some debris in the water which has also changed from a light green color to light brown at this point. "Reflection" arrived at the marina at 11 a.m. followed by "Falkor" a short time later. After taking on fuel, we were assisted in tying up at the dock by other "Loopers", some of whom we had met before, and some not.

We had lunch at the dockside restaurant and by 1:15 p.m. we were on our way in the marina courtesy car to the liquor store and to the local "Walmart" in the company of Pookie and Evan from "Pookie II" and Al and Gayle aboard "Falkor". Upon our return we were all invited to a "Happy Hour" on their dock by Ray and Patsy of "PatsyRay".

There we also met up with Rick and Betsy of "Rick 'n Roll", Pia and Jack of "Still Busy" and Dean and Marge of "Still Afloat". That evening all fourteen of us had dinner together at the dockside restaurant. We were treated royally and all of us even shared an enormous dessert. The food was delicious, the servings were huge, and the service was great. We truly experienced southern hospitality at its best tonight, and everyone we have met in Kentucky and Tennessee has gone out of their way to make sure we feel welcome and are well taken care of.

9/22 - Buchanan, Tennessee

We awoke to overcast skies and lifted anchor at 7 a.m. in the company of "Falkor". Our destination today was Paris Landing State Park Marina 29 miles away. The wind was blowing against us at about 10 knots causing a light chop on Kentucky Lake, which was quite reminiscent of our usual wind/wave conditions on our home waters of Barnegat Bay in New Jersey.

The marina had many available slips and we had our choice of where we wanted to pull in. By late morning we were both comfortably tied up in air-conditioned comfort as the temperature was in the mid 80s and the humidity was high.

George, Al, and Gayle all went on exploratory walks around the Park's grounds, while Pat stayed aboard and used her energy cleaning the inside of the boat. After naps and showers, we called the Park's Lodge where we and the Binningtons planned to have dinner and a ranger came down with his vehicle to transport us from the marina to the facility.

The Lodge was actually a substantial Hotel/Conference Center with several large dining rooms where a Chicken Buffet was being served on this particular evening. Fried Chicken, Barbecued Chicken, Fried Chicken Livers, Chicken and Dumplings, Chicken Soup, a multitude of salads, vegetable selections, potatoes, biscuits, etc., followed by a variety of desserts were on the menu.

Captain George was a happy man, since chicken in almost any form is on his list of favorite foods. Not only was the food delicious, but you could go back to the buffet as many times as you wanted. On top of this, when we went to pay for our dinner, we discovered that we also were eligible for a "over 62" discount which brought the price down to only about $6.50 per person. This was reasonable beyond belief! After dinner, the front desk called the ranger, who now returned us to the marina. What a great night it was at this great location!

9/21 - Sugar Bay Anchorage - Kentucky Lake

Sugar Bay cove our first protected anchorage in quite some time

"Reflection" and her reflection
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"Reflection" and "Falkor" got underway at 10 a.m. for our 14 mile trip to Sugar Bay. We entered the short Barkley Canal which took us from Lake Barkley into Kentucky Lake, that is actually the wide part of the Tennessee River.

The scenery was lush and beautiful, and in some ways reminded us of Chesapeake Bay with many lovely coves for anchoring. We arrived at our location at noon-time, and a little later we were joined by two more boats, "Still Busy" and "Meander".

After lunch, all the boaters came out to play! Some went swimming in the 84 degree water, some washed their hulls, and everyone dropped their dinghies in to go for rides around the anchorage area. George grilled spareribs for dinner, and we enjoyed watching a DVD afterward, followed by a restful night in this special place.

9/20 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky - Lake Barkley

We awoke to rainy skies, and were glad we decided to stay here today before moving on to the Tennessee River. After a great breakfast aboard, we shopped at the "Ship's Store', made a bunch of phone calls, up-dated our blog, and enjoyed cable TV (which is a rarity). Later on in the afternoon, we were delighted to see "Houlegan" enter the marina, and tie up right in front of us. They did the 293 mile push to get here in 4 days, which is quite an accomplishment!

Though they were quite exhausted, Ray and Caryl did come over later to our boat for cocktails, munchies, and great conversation about our shared adventures over the past 10 days. Later in the evening, George enjoyed watching a Giants football game on TV, especially since the Giants bet the Dallas Cowboys in an exciting finish!

9/19 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky

Neil and Peggy from "Early Out" and Sara (our waitress)

Ceci and Hank from "Maya Lisa"

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We were joyful to learn from Barbara Bryant that her husband, Bob, did indeed have kidney transplant surgery last night, and that he was doing well. God answered our prayers and we continue to ask for Bob's speedy, smooth recovery in his chance at an extended new life without dialysis.

Today's chores included laundry, food shopping, and a stop at the hardware store. Luckily, this marina had golf carts or courtesy vans for rent (which we did), so boaters could make their way into town (about a mile away, but very hilly) or to Paducah (20 miles away), etc.

Grand Rivers is a small tourist village with antique shops, clothing stores, a playhouse, several restaurants, and a grocery store. Since the village is located in a dry county, there are no liquor stores or bars in the area.

We had some rain showers in the afternoon, but the skies finally cleared so that the crews of all 14 boats of "Loopers" could gather together at a gazebo on the marina grounds for an impromptu party of cocktails and appetizers. The table was over-flowing with wonderful treats brought by each boat, proving that our band of travelers eats very well underway! These were the boats who were present: "Reflection" - New Jersey, "Falkor" - Ontario, "Maya Lisa" - Virginia, "Still Busy" - South Carolina, "Early Out" - Florida, "Riff Raff" - Georgia, "Rick 'n Roll" - North Carolina, "Perfect Remedy" - Florida, "Morningside" - Maryland, "Meander" - Florida, "Sterling Lady - Florida, "Carolyn Ann" - Florida, "Pookie II" - Tennessee, and "Boodi and the Beast" - Kentucky - who completed their "Loop" here today.

We all had a great time eating, drinking, telling stories, singing (one gal plays a mean harmonica), and taking pictures. It was a fabulous get- together! Afterwards, we went out to dinner with Hank and Ceci from "Maya Lisa", and Neil and Peggy from "Early Out". "Maya Lisa" will be heading out tomorrow at a fast pace to bring the boat to its winter haul-out location in Fulton, Mississippi in three days. They will then drive home and continue their trip next Spring. After a fun evening at "Patti's", we said our "good-byes" to our friends with hopes to perhaps see them in Florida when they are visiting in Fort Myers this winter.

9/18 - Grand Rivers, Kentucky

Look closely at the top of the tree - there is a Bald Eagle sitting on it

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We left late today - 7 a.m.! The Cumberland was a very narrow river, which twisted and turned past small commercial areas, and had tree-lined scenic areas along its banks. We saw vultures, blue herons, and our second bald eagle of the trip along the way. There were no other boats or barges on our journey, but the current was running against us at a speed of at least 2 knots.

After 30 miles we finally faced formidable Barkley Lock with its lift of 57 feet. We proceeded into the chamber quickly, tied up to a floating bollard, and were lifted speedily into beautiful Lake Barkley. Green Turtle Bay Marina was only a mile beyond the lock, and we were quickly tied up by 2 p.m.

This was our first day in several to be able to walk on land! We also received a wonderful phone call upon our arrival from our dear friend and neighbor, Bob Bryant. He had just received word from the University of Pennsylvania Hospital that a kidney might be available for him so that he could receive a much-needed and prayed-for kidney transplant! He was awaiting word from the hospital after the kidney was tested for the go-ahead to drive to the facility for immediate transplant surgery. Our hopes and prayers were with him!

Al and Gayle invited us to "Falkor" for cocktails, and we decided that afterward we would go to "Patti's 1880's Settlement" for dinner to celebrate our week of travel. George decided before our visit to call Hank and Ceci aboard "Maya Lisa" to see where they were at this point. To our surprise, Hank said that they and 10 other "Looper" boats were in Barkley Lock, just around the corner from the marina, and would be coming in shortly!

What a sight this was a few minutes later! All these boats were lined up and coming into the marina, like a small parade! The boats had begun their trips from various locations in the U.S and Canada, and we knew some of the difficulties each and every one had to surmount to get here: just being "Carp Captives", "Lock Captives", and river travelers.

Everyone was happy to get here, and most looked tired, but ready to party. Aboard "Falkor" Gayle had made delicious home-made scones and a chicken curry spread for hors d'oeuvres. A restaurant van picked us up and we had a wonderful dinner at "Mr. Bill's", the partner restaurant of "Patti's" with the same great menu including their famous 2 inch pork chops. We also learned more about the Binningtons, their careers (professor of Veterinary Surgery, teacher of Chemistry), son and daughter (tug boat captain on the Great Lakes, physiotherapist), and their other boat (canal boat in France). We really enjoyed sharing a fascinating evening with this delightful couple.

9/17 - Cumberland Island Towhead - Ohio River

The confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers

At anchor in the Cumberland Tow Head
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Again we lifted anchor at 6:30 a.m., but when we approached Lock 52 on the Ohio River at 7:45 a.m., we noticed many tows and barges tied up on the shore before the lock. When George called the locktender and asked him when we could come through, we were told in about 3 to 4 hours! George then asked if there was any place that we could tie up while we waited, and he told us to anchor in the river near a particular buoy, and then wait for him to call us.

We used the time to have a wonderful breakfast, and at about 10:15 a.m. we were told that the locktender would fit our two boats in the lock with a tow with several small barges. The Army Corps had closed down the larger lock chamber for repairs, thus causing a major back-up on the Ohio, and we were lucky to be allowed through. This, however, became a very long process, since this lock was quite old and took VERY LONG to empty and fill.

We finally got through about 11:15 a.m. and because of the lock delay, and the current against us, we decided to continue our 26 mile trip to Cumberland Island Towhead on the Ohio, instead of trying to proceed on to the Cumberland River which could have resulted in our being on that river in the dark. On the way our boats passed the confluence of the Tennessee and Ohio Rivers at Paducah, and we continued on the Ohio until we reached the Cumberland River, which we were taking to bypass a lock on the Tennessee which is notorious for huge commercial back-ups.

Again, this anchorage which had been visited before by Al and Gayle proved to be a terrific one. We were anchored by 2 p.m., saw some small deer on the island near sunset, and had a quiet evening planning future stops on Kentucky Lake and the Tennessee River.

9/16 - Little Chain Bar Anchorage - Ohio River

An easy day going down the Mississippi

Barges aground (even the pros screw up)

The confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers

A new lock under construction on the Ohio River (Your tax dollars at work)

Reflection ar her first anchorage on the Ohio River

"Falkor" joins us at anchor

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We lifted our anchors at 6:30 a.m. for our 81 mile trip which was our last on the Mississippi and would take us on to the Ohio River. We again encountered lots of barge traffic and even saw barges that ran aground outside of the channel, just proving that even professional tow captains have to be careful on curves of the river.

Toward the end of the Mississippi run, the scenery became almost surreal with an overcast sky, muddy banks, swirling waters, and incredible curves in the river. As we approached the confluence of the two rivers and then came around the final curve at Cairo, Illinois into the Ohio River, the feeling and scenery completely changed. Even though Cairo was highly industrial, the river banks were now made up of sandy shores and cliffs, perhaps a scene that felt more familiar and comfortable to what we often see on the U.S. east coast.

Now, however, we had 1 - 2 knots of current running against us, which slowed down our travel. We transited Lock 53 on the Ohio very easily, and then proceeded to this anchorage spot that Al and Gayle were familiar with from their last trip, and even though it was about a mile and a half from a coal barge loading area, we stayed as far away from the coal carriers as we could and securely anchored behind a sand bar in the river in about 15 feet of water at about 3:30 p.m. Thanks to Al and Gayle's experience with this area, we again had a quiet night in this great spot right on the Ohio River.

9/15 - Little Diversion Channel - Mississippi River

Reflection and Falkor tied stern to stern in the Little Diversion Channel

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"Reflection" and "Falkor" started out at 6:30 a.m., not only because we wanted to be out of the way of the Army Corps of Engineers before they started moving their barge equipment near our dock, but also because we had a 69 mile trip to make to an anchorage at Little Diversion Channel. This spot is only a narrow cut in the west bank of the Mississippi where a few boats can hide from the current and barge traffic of the river, and such safe stopping spots are rare. We arrived about 1:30 p.m., each vessel dropped a bow anchor in opposite directions, and then backed up slowly to each other and tied our sterns together. We did this so our boats would not move during the night in this very tight situation. No other boats entered the anchorage, and outside of our getting slightly waked by two bass boats motoring by quickly in the dark (and it was VERY dark), we had a quiet, peaceful night.

9/14 - Kaskaskia River Lock

Cliffs rising along the Mississippi

Corps of Engineers tow boat and construction barge entering the Kaskaskia River Lock

Off loading construction equipment to begin work at the lock and dam

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The places to safely tie up or anchor a boat on the Mississippi are few and far between. The river twists and turns along muddy banks with light brown water, and can be almost mesmerizing except that the boater must always be aware of the possible hazard of a large tow boat with a multitude of barges coming around a blind turn.

The tow boat operators were very friendly and we were in contact with many by radio as we asked them about which side we would pass them: "on the one's" (port to port), "on the two's" (starboard to starboard), etc.

After 41 miles we pulled into the Kaskaskia River Lock wall where we asked the lock-tender whether we could tie up for the night even though it was only about 11 a.m. at this point. After getting all our info about boat name, how many people were aboard, and destination, he said that we could tie up, but that the Army Corps of Engineers was going to be bringing in a barge and equipment to work on the lock and dam, yet he would allow us to stay there unless they needed us to move.

Imagine then a lovely summer afternoon with temperatures in the low 80s, little wind, and just the sound of cicadas. Nap time! Then suddenly a voice on the marine radio interrupted everything! "Vessel "Reflection", sorry I have to disturb you, but you're going to have to move!" At the request of the tow- boat barge captain who had arrived with a huge barge with major equipment aboard, the dock we were at was where they wanted to tie up, so we had to untie and go to another section of the lock wall out of their way. We did so quickly, and were happy they were just allowing us to stay.

A little while later we heard another vessel, "Falkor", calling the lock-tender and asking to also tie up. He granted them permission as long as we could make do together on the same space on the lock wall. We were glad to move our boat to make room for them, and George helped them tie up. "Falkor" was a Grand Banks 36 with Allen and Gayle Binnington from Guelph, Ontario aboard and this was their 3RD TIME AROUND DOING THE "LOOP"! We invited them for cocktails aboard and by sharing their detailed logs of previous trips, they were a wealth of information on what we would yet be encountering. They were heading to the Bahamas for the winter, and we decided to travel together for some of our way south. We were so happy to meet this charming couple!

9/13 - Kimmswick, Missouri

Entering the Mel Price Lock on the Mississippi

(over 1000 feet long)

Pat at her post securing Reflection to a floating bollard in the lock for our ride down.

The Gate Way Arch

Tow boat pushing twenty barges up the Mississippi (we saw a single tow boat pushing 45 barges later in the day)

Hoppie's Marine Services (any port you can find on the Mississippi)

Walled home near Kimmswick, Mo

Kimmswick, Mo. Post office

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We left our slip at Alton Marina at 6:40 a.m. on a 44 mile trip down the Mississippi through 2 locks to Hoppie's Marine Service. These locks were enormous in length and width in order to accommodate the size of the tows and barges that we have seen as we travel these large waterways. Today's travel also took us past St. Louis with a different view of the Arch and its surroundings which we had visited only a few days ago by land.

The river current was moving at approximately 2 to 3 knots and we were glad that it was going our way. Water temperatures were in the low to mid 80s and the river was somewhat brown in color though, not as muddy as the Illinois River.

Thanks to the current we arrived at our destination before 11 a.m. Hoppie's is a famous stop for boaters on the Mississippi. Dockage was at three 100 foot long barges tied to a cliff with cables. It was also the only place to get fuel for the next 107 miles and the only marina for 228 miles! We also got to meet the well-known owner, Fern Hopkins, the local expert on the rivers we will encounter going south to Mobile. Mrs. Hopkins was kind enough to sit with us and our charts and go over potential anchorages, trouble spots, and good marinas along the way. We greatly appreciated her time and advice!

George walked into town that that had two nice restaurants and several small shops selling everything from Christmas items to whips and saddles. We had grilled hamburgers for dinner and we enjoyed an evening of comedy DVDs.

9/12 - Alton, Illinois (home of "Fast Eddie's")

This was our third and final day in Alton in preparation for the next stage of our trip on the Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland Rivers. We left the boat at 8 a.m. and went to the local Farmers' Market where we picked up fresh vegetables, and home-made breads, cookies and apple tarts. Then we headed to a large grocery store to stock up with everything we would need for the refrigerator, freezer, and pantry for at least 10 days without access to a market.

Pat then spent the rest of the afternoon organizing all these purchases, cleaning the interior of the boat, and writing our blog. In order not to be in the way of her activities, George VOLUNTEERED to visit a well-known bar/eatery in the area, "Fast Eddie's Bonair" in order to personally research its notoriety.

"Fast Eddie's" was first recommended by the agent when we rented a car in Alton. It was also recommended by various folks at the marina, and it became clear that the captain, for the good of those reading this blog, should explore the wonders of "Fast Eddie's".

George got in a cab and went on his way. The driver again regaled him with stories about the glories of this landmark bar. Where George was going sounded like a bar "nirvana".

The outside of "Fast Eddie's" was a completely nondescript structure with the bar food menu and prices painted on the exterior wall: 1/2 pound burgers for a $1.00, home made Bratwurst for a $1.00, a basket of French Fries for (you guessed it) a $1.00. The Captain had to go in and see this for himself.

Upon entering this unique establishment he was struck by the size of the place and the number of people in it. It was huge. It was sort of a combination of "Sloppy Joe's" in Key West, the old "Jimmy Byrne's" and "Jerry Lynch's" bars from the New Jersey shore, and the local bar your father may have hung out in when you were a kid, but all on a grand scale, a very grand scale!

There were literally hundreds of people in the place. The clientele ran from bikers to business men, blue collar, white collar, and no collar. They were all there. Although most folks were in there 20s and 30s, the patrons' ages ran into the early 80s. It was quite an assortment of humanity.

George observed a line and went to the end of it. He asked the guy in front of him what the line was for. He explained this was the line to order food. It wrapped half way around a large rectangular bar. George was told that he was in luck, but when he got into the line it went all the way around the bar. (Lucky guy!) It was rather convenient with the bar and food line right next to each other because you could drink your way around the bar, and most people were doing just that. Oh, by the way, the beer was cheap, too.

George's new bar companion explained that Fast Eddie had quite an influence upon him between the ages of 21 and 24 as he sort of lived at the bar during that time you might say. Now when he comes home to visit his parents, he said that he always stops here, but brings his folks along with him.

George drank his way to the front of the food line where he ordered a Bratwurst and a "Chick on a Stick" (very well seasoned chicken wings on a skewer). He paid his money and was given a receipt and stood on the side waiting for his food. A nice young lady informed him that he might as well find a place to sit down to wait for his food as they were calling number 475 at that time. He looked down at his receipt, and he held number 2. Number 2! How high did these numbers go before they rolled over?

He then went over to one of the bars and found a place to sit next to a nice couple. The guy had enough tattoos to be considered a circus freak, and she sported a lovely "Harley Davidson" logo on her forearm: they were real nice folks. Well, much to George's surprise, in about a half hour and some 80 numbers later they rolled the numbers over and his number 2 came up. The food quality was surprisingly not indicative of its low price. It was actually QUITE GOOD!

After "dining", George decided to walk around and absorb the "ambiance". "Fast Eddie's" was decorated in dark tones with splashes of neon. There were many rooms with music playing throughout. His friend from the food line told him that when the state of Illinois banned smoking in bars, Fast Eddie took action and bought the street adjacent to the bar from the city and enclosed the area for the smokers. This George wanted to see, so he went out a side door into a new world.

Fast Eddie had built a wall between 15 and 20 feet high enclosing the entire area. You couldn't see out, and no one could see in from the outside. This area was filled with tables and chairs, a couple of bars, a stage with two guys playing guitars, and hundreds of people eating, drinking, singing, and dancing.

The captain asked one of the bartenders if it was always this crazy. He explained that this was a small crowd, and he should have been here during mid summer when it was packed. By the way, this was only 4 o'clock in the afternoon.

As George worked his way back to the main bar area heading for the only exit in the place, he looked back for a moment on what must be truly this bar "nirvana". If ever in Alton, Illinois again, he will return.

Upon his return to the boat (having been to the "mountaintop") and a nap, dinner that evening was delivered by a local Chinese restaurant followed up by an early bed-time, since we were anxious to get on our way at sunrise tomorrow.

9/11 - Alton, Illinois

Today is one of our preparation days for the next segment of our trip which will take us through 2 locks and 201 miles down the Mississippi River, through 2 locks and 59 miles on the Ohio River, and then through 1 lock and 32 miles on the Cumberland River to the Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, Kentucky.

We plan to begin this segment on 9/13 and arrive in Kentucky on 9/18. We will be tied up at only one marina during this time, Hoppie's Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri which is actually 3 barges tied together anchored to the rock shoreline. During the rest of the time we will be at anchorages, and at lock walls, because there are just no facilities to be had! This should be VERY INTERESTING!

So, while Pat did laundry all morning, George cleaned the outside of the boat. We rested in the afternoon, and talked to our friend, Hank Bassford, aboard "Maya Lisa". He and Ceci were supposed to stop at "Mel's Illinois Riverdock" for the night, but instead they changed plans and were now in Grafton. We had planned to go up to meet them at "Mel's" for dinner, and even though they were not there, we decided to still drive up there (40 miles) because George wanted to have the fried chicken special. (The way to a man's heart is through…) We were not disappointed - the meal was great! On our way back we stopped at Grafton Marina, but couldn't get in touch with the Bassfords, so we headed back to Alton.

9/10 - Alton, Illinois

Cliffs along the eastern shore for the Mississippi

More of the same

Clark Bridge in Alton Illinois

Entrance to the Museum of Westward Expansion

The Mississippi from the top of the Gateway Arch

The St. Louis Court House

It is cozy inside the tram compartment

No comment necessary

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Charlie and Helen were leaving us today after 10 days aboard, so we got underway before 8 a.m. for our 17 mile trip to the Alton Marina - our first marina on the Mississippi River.

The river widened considerably and there were now high rock cliffs on the eastern shoreline. The marina's entrance was under the magnificent Clark Bridge which spans the river from the Illinois to the Missouri sides. It took some time to fill up with fuel, get settled in the slip, rent a car, and get the luggage off, but we were on our way to St. Louis by 11:30 a.m.

We finally found Laclede's Landing, a small river-front enclave of restaurants and historic buildings, and chose "Hannagan's" as our restaurant for lunch. We then spent several hours at the famous St. Louis Gateway Arch, where we saw a movie about the Lewis and Clark Expedition, toured the Museum of Westward Expansion, and took a tram ride to the top of the Arch for a panoramic view of the city and the Mississippi River. What a great day!

We then drove Charlie and Helen to the St. Louis International Airport in time for their 7 p.m. flight back to New Jersey. It was nostalgic saying "good-bye" to our long-time friends who we truly enjoyed having aboard to share some of our "adventure" with us. When we returned to "Reflection" we made several phone calls to our neighbors/friends to see what was happening at home. Evidently there was a "northeaster" blowing with lots of wind and rain. Hopefully Charlie and Helen's flight won't be delayed getting in.

9/9 - Grafton, Illinois

White pelicans

Local ferry service

Confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers

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We enjoyed last night's dinner so much that we returned to "Mel's Riverdock Restaurant" for breakfast! It was terrific, and George vowed that we would return on Friday night for Mel's fried chicken special, one of his favorite meals. After all this dining at this "find", we finally got underway at about 9 a.m. for a short 20 mile trip to Grafton Harbor Marina, dubbed "The Key West of the Midwest", since it is located at Mile Marker .0 on the Illinois River. This is a point where the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers come together, known as a "confluence".

We docked before noon at this lovely marina, bought some tee-shirts in the ship's store to commemorate this spot, and set about exploring this small town of 615 people. There were a number of shops and restaurants, a hotel that claimed to be haunted by a young girl, and even a winery. We made several stops along the way, and then decided to split up with Pat returning to the boat, and the others to continue shopping and going to the hardware store for a replacement screw for the anchor.

Upon Pat's return to the dock, she was delighted to see "Houlegan" with our friends Ray and Caryl aboard pulling in. We hadn't really visited with them in person since July, even though we have talked by phone, emailed each other, traversed the fish barrier on the same day, and been tied up at Joliet together. They came aboard bringing George's "quick-release" hose connection which he had left by accident at Tall Timbers Marina, and which Bob, the owner, had asked them to give to us when they could.

We invited Ray and Caryl to come back later for cocktails, so we could really catch up with them on their activities. Our crew again split up for the afternoon: some to read, some to nap, and some to sit at the pool. We had a great cocktail party aboard and after the Houles returned to their boat, our crew went to "The Mississippi Half-Step" for dinner. The restaurant was in a charming historic home with dining in various rooms inside as well as on the outside patio. Since three of us were nursing lots of mosquito bites on our legs from other night-time outdoor activities, we chose to eat inside. The dinner was great, and we closed the place at 10 p.m.

9/8 - Hardin, Illinois

Our next boat

Mel's River Dock Restaurant (George's newest favorite place to eat.)

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While lifting anchor at 6:45 a.m., a large screw in our anchor stem roller sheared off making raising the anchor difficult, but George and Charlie determined that a replacement could be found in a few days. We then called the lock-tender at La Grange Lock (our last lock on the Illinois River) who told us to come on ahead and again we floated in the middle of this lock, rather than tying to a rope or bollard. The scenery was lovely and rural as we traveled south on this end of the river, and we saw turtles sunning themselves on fallen tree stumps, many blue herons, white pelicans, and even a bald eagle along the way.

We were headed on a 65 mile trip to "Mel's Illinois Riverdock Restaurant" which, from everything we had read, had terrific food with an over-night dock right on the river. The dock wasn't quite what we had pictured, but it was really quite adequate for us.

The simple-looking restaurant was on a hill behind the dock, and George, Charlie, and Helen decided to head up there and check out the menu. They were quite pleased and enthusiastic upon their return to the boat as they not only got to meet the famous "Mel", but he also gave them samples of some of his cuisine.

Brisket was one of the specialties for tonight's dinner menu, and we did enjoy it very much, but ended up bringing much of the very large portions back to the boat in "doggie bags". The cooking was "down home" with ribs, fried chicken, potato salad, sweet potatoes, and cucumber salad just some of the excellent dishes to be had. We finished off with apple pie and ice cream, walked back to the dock, and watched "Farewell to Arms" as our evening's movie. (Another movie with a happy ending.)

9/7 - Bar Island Anchorage

A typical bend on the Illinois River

Ferry Service across the Illinois River

Sunset at Bar Island Anchorage

Since we did not have a large number of miles to travel to our anchorage location on the Illinois River, we did not leave pretty Tall Timbers Marina until 10 a.m. The weather continued to be delightful with warm temperatures in the high 70s and low 80s, light winds, and sunny skies. We only saw three barges with tugs in the 35 mile trip and we entered the quiet spot (except for the carp jumping around) behind Bar Island, just outside the channel, at about 2 p.m. Despite the fact that this island was not very large, we were sheltered from the barge wake and "Reflection" remained steady at anchor. It was a wonderful, quiet Labor Day afternoon with each of us finding our own spot aboard to read, nap, or watch a movie. After cocktails George barbecued chicken on the grill for dinner followed up by our watching "From Here to Eternity" as our evening entertainment.

9/6 - Havana, Illinois

Peoria Ill.

Tall Timbers Marina

The Blue Heron Bar (A little slice of paradise on the Illinois River)
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We had rain overnight and it was overcast with sprinkles when we got up. George cooked a wonderful Sunday morning breakfast of scrambled eggs mixed with onions, cheese, and bacon and toasted cheddar cheese bread. It was our once-a-week big breakfast splurge!

We headed out into the river at 9:45 a.m. for a relaxed 48 mile trip to Tall Timbers Marina in Havana. Again we called ahead to the lock-tender at the Peoria Lock and he also told us to come on ahead as he had no commercial traffic. Like yesterday, the locking was effortless as we quickly entered and were given the option to float in the center as we were lowered only 8 feet. We didn't even have to tie up!

As we made our way down the river we passed by the city of Peoria, the home of Caterpiller Corporation, the maker of our two hard-working engines. There was really no adequate dockage in the city's slips for a boat of our size, so we weren't able to visit.

As we continued on our route, the shoreline became very rural with lots of blue herons sitting along the banks, and we could see the results that last Fall's and this Spring's flooding had taken on the trees along the river. Many were completely up-rooted or had their roots greatly exposed. There were also few houses in this flood-plain prone area, and those we did see were either built on stilts, or were situated behind high levees.

The boat traffic was very light and small bass boats seem to be the norm. The river was also quite shallow along its shores and it was important to follow the channel. We arrived at Tall Timbers at 2:45 p.m.

This was a small tucked-away private marina whose entrance could hardly be seen from the river itself. You have to know that it's there! We entered through the very narrow opening surrounded by rock walls into the marina's cove of approximately 35 boats.

"Reflection" was definitely the biggest boat here, but Captain George very adeptly turned her around and we backed up to our assigned place at the fuel dock. We were warmly greeted by Bob, the owner, and by a number of other boat owners who were sitting at the tropical bar area right alongside our boat. Some even wanted tours aboard! We were definitely the "talk" of the marina, and during the late afternoon and early evening many people stopped by to chat and to ask questions about our "Loop" adventure. Tonight we also finally had the steak dinner aboard that we had been promising Charlie and Helen for almost a week. It was a fun evening at this great spot!

9/5 - Peoria Heights, Illinois

The I V Y Club

This morning we got underway at 6:50 a.m. for our 75 mile trip to the Illinois Valley Yacht Club (a.k.a. the IVY Club). We called the lock-tender at the Starved Rock Lock ahead of time and he told us that the traffic was clear and we were able to get in and out of that lock where we were by ourselves very quickly.

The ride down the Illinois River became very pleasant as the river widened and we saw many people who had set up campsites along the shores fishing. The small boat traffic also increased on this holiday week-end, but it was nothing compared to Barnegat Bay back home in NJ.

"Reflection" arrived at the I.V.Y. C. at 3 p.m. and we received a warm welcome from the dockmaster and some members. After taking on fuel we were tied up at the wall right in front of their clubhouse. Their facilities were lovely: including a pool, dining room and bar, clean showers, and laundry.

Once we were set up, our crew scattered: some to do laundry, and some to the bar to watch the football game and/or to take showers. We had a great dinner at the dining room in the evening and were grateful for the relaxed day we had today compared to our previous two.

9/4 - Ottawa, Illinois

Waiting to leave Joliet

Tied up at the beautiful River Club while waiting for the Brandon Roads lock

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Today's plan was for us to transit 61 miles to Starved Rock Marina, but the lockmasters' plans on the 3 locks we had to transit changed our schedule. A miscommunication with the Brandon Road lock-tender caused us to sit at the park wall longer than we should have.

He told us to hang back because he had commercial traffic coming through. Then he changed things, and allowed some recreational boats through, but it was now too late for us to catch up and go with them. We then made our way to the lock with another boat which was tied up at the Park. However, we ending waiting at a wall near the lock until noon before we could get through. This caused a three hour delay in our schedule.

The scenery was still highly industrial - not attractive at all. We then transited the Dresden Lock pretty quickly, since there was no commercial traffic there. Now the scenery began to change and the river widened and became more rural with only an occasional factory, grain elevator, or barge dock.

We then arrived at the Marseilles Lock and were informed by the lock-tender that we would have a 45 minute wait as a 10 barge tow was coming through the opposite way. This actually took about 2 hours! We then scrapped our plans to reach Starved Rock and headed instead for Heritage Harbor Marina only 2 miles past this lock.

We arrived around 7:15 p.m. and received a warm welcome from Captain Moe (the dockmaster) at this beautiful new marina. Captain Moe is known among "Loopers" as the "savior" of 26 boats who were caught for two weeks at this marina in the Illinois River flooding last year. During that time he arranged transportation, field trips, and, in general, made everyone as comfortable as he could during that terrible time. He couldn't do enough for us tonight, and we were sorry our schedule did not permit us to stay here longer. Again, we were exhausted after our long day, and we brought dinner from the on-site restaurant back to eat aboard the boat. We were also able to spot the infamous carp whose mouths we could see while using flashlights on the water.